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Unclassified Pouilly-Fume at half the price! £10.95

An out and out bargain

***Just across the river from Sancerre***


Who wouldn’t want to wake up to baguette and café au lait and then spend the rest of the day tasting wines, followed by a hunt for the best wine bar, before settling down in a bistrot for the plat du jour, washed down by a few escargots? ast week I was in Paris, doing just that.


It’s hard work, though. There’s a lot of triage to do ;-), and a lot of frogs for every prince, and I have sometimes tasted for two days and not found a single wine to bring home. But, on this occasion Lady Luck was with me.


Past the glamorous stands of Provence rose that look like super yachts with their swish white seats and flash bottles, I spied a very plain space with only a wee table per winery. It was for ‘new producers’. It is the kind of place I thrive in.


I spotted a Sancerre and asked for a taste, but the lady said, ‘You must first taste these wines from my own vineyards. The Sancerre is made from fruit I buy from a friend’. She uses the Sancerre as a lure, and I took the bait. So we started by tasting her Pouilly-Fumé. It was impressive on the nose with zippy, citrus notes, a slight flintiness, and a chalky bite on the fine palate. Delicious and classic. I absolutely loved it. She then gave me a wine from vineyards right next to the Pouilly-Fumé, but she said she didn’t know what to do with it as it cannot be sold with the name Pouilly-Fume on it. It tasted almost identical. I knew exactly what do with it.


It turns out this is a Pouilly-Fumé in all but name, as a few generations before, when the Appellation of Pouilly-Fumé was created, the family chose not to pay for all of their land that could be classified to be classified, as they were not growing vines on it at the time.


Domaine Lispaul Val de Loire 2019

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